The Mountain Bikers Corner
by Cliff Krolick

So you've been wondering about getting a mountain bike and thinking what it might be like to try some "real "mountain biking. The first thing to consider is your body size, its relation to the bike's fit and its setup for you.

Please keep in mind that there will be a number of similarities in bike sizing and setup that may be applicable to riding a regular road bike, hybrid, etc. However, there are enough differences to consider mountain biking as a separate sport.

While it's always a good idea to go to a local bike shop for fitting, here are some factors to consider in choosing your first mountain bike.

Frame choices: Small (13"-16") is for people 5' to 5' 2" tall. Medium (16"-18") is for heights of 5'2 to 5"8". Large (19" and up) is for people 5'8" and taller. Straddling over the center bar with your feet on the ground, you should have at least an inch of clearance under you and the top tube (frame).

Seat adjustments: When sitting on the bike, take a down pedal stroke. Your leg should be almost entirely extended (only very little knee bend) when your foot is on the pedal near the ground. The seat angle should be completely horizontal to level ground or to a level center top tube. Arms should be almost completely extended (only very little or no elbow bend) when on the seat and grasping bars. Loosening the large allen screw behind the seat will permit the seat to slide and the angle to be changed easily on the seat rail.

Footwear/pedals: If you're a novice and inexperienced with clipless shoes & pedals, start with a platform pedal with straps and toe clips. This is for safety. You need restraint, something to help keep your feet on the pedal when you encounter bumps. More often then you think, you will be standing on those pedals - not sitting on the seat. The preferred and safe footwear for toe clip and strap system is any treadless sneaker or shoe. Basketball or tennis shoes work fine, but not jogging or hiking shoes.

Handlebars: The newer bikes often have riser bars. They put you in an upright position, which is considerably more comfortable on the trail and offers you far better vision and bike maneuverability. Your handlebar angle can be adjusted to put you more or less upright.

Brake Levers: Hand size and finger length are the important factors to consider here. If you have difficulty reaching the levers easily, there's a tiny allen screw that can be turned to bring the levers in, making them much easier to reach. Remember, difficulty in fine-tuning any of your bike's adjustments can be easily accomplished at any reliable shop.

Helmet: This is the most important safety feature. Never ride without one. Straps should be adjusted so the helmet is snug, not tight, and doesn't move when you shake your head front to back or sideways.

Learning How to Mountain Bike Safely

Well, now the bike seems to be set up properly. A friend says, "I'll teach you, just follow me on this great trail." You think, how much more could there be to it then just riding a bike?

STOP! This is a serious misconception. Knowing how to ride a bike on pavement doesn't equate to being able to do real mountain biking. It could be dangerous to follow a friend on a single line trail, commonly known as a singletrack. Even more dangerous would be to go to a ski area, purchase a lift ticket and come flying down the hill.

Mountain biking is more akin to horseback riding than to road riding. And it is supposed to occur in hilly terrain. You need to contend with the effects of gravity on a trail climb or descent, plus bumps, sticks, trees and rocks. What worked while road biking often doesn't for mountain biking and can be the opposite.

"Ring Of Success"*

Mountain biking is truly a multi-tasking experience and requires precise timing coupled with concentration. The best place to learn is a small circular area, perhaps in your backyard or at a nearby park. Ideally, the circle should include a small slope or hill.

Riding in this fashion gives you an opportunity to become very familiar with all components, especially shifters and brakes. Many repetitions will help you grow in competence and confidence.

It helps to have someone give you commands while you ride in the circle. Learn to shift only one gear at a time. Learn which gears offer the most efficient and safest pedaling going down and up. Practice when to shift.

To get started, straddle over the bike. Figure out which of your feet is the most difficult to get onto the pedal and into the toe clip. Start pedaling with the hard foot in. It is likely that your other foot will be easy to get into the toe strap system, so do not be too concerned about it.

Begin to ride around the circle keeping your left hand shifter on the smallest chain ring in front. (You can practice with the larger front ring(s) later on.) For now, it is important to get used to shifting gears but you'll only want to be concerned with your right hand shifter as it controls the rear group (cassette) of gears.

As you shift, your chain will move up or down on the rear cassette of gears. Shifting up the cassette will make your pedaling faster with less strain and it will be easier to maintain steady momentum as you climb. While climbing, you'll want to shift to easier gears (up the cassette) one gear at a time, but keep shifting right through the entire climb. This constant shifting will give you the practice you'll need and the gears required to make it up easily.

During climbing, it's a good idea to slide your weight forward toward the narrow part of the seat while placing your upper body low and almost on top of your handlebars. This weight transference serves to counteract the effects of gravity by helping to keep your front wheel on the ground and your bike moving in a straight line. Prior to climbing a hill, be certain that you have enough gears to shift as you go up. Not using all your gears and remaining on one or two gears for most of the ride will tire you out way before the ride is over.

Once you've mastered pedaling and shifting in the practice arena, add the experience and power of your brakes and the correct position for coasting (forward motion without pedaling).

It is important to note that a considerable portion of your riding, especially in hills, will be coasting, so the correct body form on the bike during these periods is most important. The safest, most efficient place to be while coasting is standing on your pedals with both feet in a platform style almost parallel to the ground. Keep in mind that much of the time you're coasting, you may be coming down a hill. As the hill may get steeper, it's a good idea to be able to move your weight to the rear off the seat.

When first getting used to standing on the pedals, it's easy to place your weight onto the handlebars. You should avoid doing this by arching your back and sticking your backside (butt) back and off the seat.

This weight transference counteracts the effect of gravity trying to push you forward and over the handlebars. By contrast, if you remain seated, it will be almost impossible to transfer much of your weight to the rear, you'll remain heavy on the front and any shock from bumps encountered will not be absorbed by your springy legs and knees but will impact your spine directly.

With your weight back and off the seat, the front end of the bike remains very light and will go over objects very easily, with little or no resistance to your forward motion. The sooner you get used to standing and coasting, the more fun you'll have and the safer you'll be.

Since you may have shifted up to the easier pedaling gears to get up the hill, it is important to shift back down the cassette to the harder gears just prior to descending. Doing this will put you in an appropriate gear for the speed that you'll be doing and will often prevent your chain from bouncing off the front rings altogether.

Much of the need for braking occurs while you're coasting - so practice braking while coasting and become comfortable doing it. Get used to the power of your brakes, as all braking systems will vary. It is safest to use both brakes simultaneously.

Brakes are meant to control your speed rather than bringing you to a sudden and complete stop. It is advisable in steep terrain to feather (brake and release). You'll want to brake for short segments then let go, then brake again for a short segment and let go.

The practice ring offers a great way to try shifting quickly between harder and easier gearing, getting on and off the seat and breaking while coasting. If you have a small practice hill, climbing and descending can be mastered for your first successful trail ride. You also may want to seek out a reputable instructor or outfitter for guidance on how to ride properly and safely.

Cliff runs Maine-based Back Country Excursions, the oldest and longest-running cross-country mountain biking touring and instruction facility in the eastern U.S. Please send comments or questions to Cliff at info@bikebackcountry.com.

*Copyright 2000, Clifford Krolick, Back Country Excursions

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